The Walk

Taking advantage of Friday's rain, which cooled things down quite a bit after the recent heatwave, I decided to go for this curious itinerary that had been buzzing in my head for a few months. After parking the car in Via Monterumici (you can also find a spot in the Teatro Eden parking lot, but watch out for the opening hours!), we head towards Viale Montegrappa and turn right, walking along the edge of the road under the trees.

On our right, we see some examples of Venetian villas, some of which are very well preserved. We are struck by a garden with statues and water features that is truly well-kept. At the end of the avenue, we turn right; there is a bit of car traffic, but that’s normal—we are on the ring road that runs outside the city center.

In a short time, we reach the Church of San Giovanni della Croce, home to the Discalced Carmelite Fathers (Padri Carmelitani Scalzi), recognizable by the statue of the Madonna outside.

Villas

Chiesa San Giovanni della Croce

After the visit, we continue to the right until we reach Porta Calvi (Viale Cesare Battisti); on the other side of the road, the Sile river flows gently by. Once inside the city walls, on the left, we can spot the house where merchants once paid duties to bring goods into the capital of the Marca, while on the right, a very unique house looks like something straight out of a fairytale. We turn right into Via San Nicolò.

We can already catch a glimpse of the bell tower of the Temple of San Nicolò. We pass the Seminary and the music school, and here we are in front of this imposing church, built by the Dominicans (Domicani) at the beginning of the 14th century, thanks to the 70,000 florins left by the Pope from Treviso, Benedict XI. The interior is truly majestic and surprises us not only with its size but also with the frescoes and paintings found on the walls and columns. We weren't able to access the Chapter Room to see the painting of the first man wearing glasses. But if you have the chance, definitely check it out.

"Fairytale House"

Chiesa di San Nicolò

We head out and continue to the right along Via San Nicolò. Look up at the cornices of the houses to see some beautiful frescoes. The sun is starting to warm up a bit, but luckily Treviso is full of "portici" (arcades), and we walk comfortably under them. We pass Piazza Vittoria with its unique post office building and reach Corso del Popolo, one of the city's main arteries.

Corso del Popolo is bustling with shops, bars, and "osterie." We head left and, after passing Piazza Borsa (with the statue of the tenor Mario Del Monaco), we come to a fork in the road (with the Tim shop on the corner)... and on the horizon, the flag of the city of Treviso waves atop the civic tower.

Keep to the right (Via Martiri della Libertà). Just a few steps and we are at the Loggia dei Cavalieri, a symbol of the political power held by the nobles during the period of the free commune. Keep going straight without turning, and we arrive at Piazza San Leonardo with its splashing fountain.

Piazza Borsa

<Loggia dei Cavalieri

Right after the fountain, we turn left into Vicolo Spineda, walking the whole length of it and passing by Casa dei Brittoni with its external frescoes. At the end of the alley, we find ourselves at Casa dei Carraresi, an important museum and exhibition venue.

We continue along Via Palestro with its bustling shops (fruit and vegetables, butcher shops, and bars) and, at the fork, we take Via Teatro Dolfin on the right. We pass the post office and find ourselves on the banks of the Cagnan river—a little bit of greenery was just what we needed.

Frescoes Casa dei Brittoni

Chiesa di San Francesco

We stop for a moment on the bench by the river; in front of us are the San Francesco Bridge and the Cagnan canal.

We can already see the Church of San Francesco (of the Franciscans - Francescani). Let's head inside for our visit among the wall frescoes (not as well-preserved as those in San Nicolò), wooden statues, and... the tomb of Pietro Alighieri, Dante's son.

Discalced Carmelites, Dominicans, Franciscans... is someone still missing? Well, yes, but let's continue our walk along Via Sant'Antonio da Padova towards the city walls.

Once we reach Via Burchiellati, we turn left and find ourselves on the Fra Giocondo Bridge (named after another Dominican), where the Botteniga river enters and branches out into the various canals (Cagnan, Buranelli, and Roggia). We cross the bridge, continue on Via Fra Giocondo, and as soon as possible, we climb up onto the walls.

It’s really nice and cool here, thanks to the breeze that "frequents" this place so regularly. This is the local's walk; in fact, we notice families, couples on benches, people with their dogs, and friends sharing their adventures.

We walk along the walls which, believe it or not, were designed by Fra Giocondo (yes, the same architect as the Bridge)... this fact has always made me smile. Just think about it: defensive walls designed by a monk whose name, "Giocondo," literally means "cheerful" or "merry."

Ponte Fra Giocondo

Walk on the wall

We stroll along the tree-lined avenue atop the walls, and once past Porta Caccianiga, we look down at the small gardens at the foot of the ramparts and spot a sign: Giardini Padre Marco d'Aviano. Here is our final friar. And to complete our list, it took a Cappuccino (Capuchin friar).

Father Marco d'Aviano (Beatified by the Catholic Church) greatly influenced European politics in the late 17th century. He is credited with helping to save Vienna from the Ottoman siege in 1683.

We continue along the walls and pass the small playground before arriving at Porta Santi Quaranta. This gate was built in 1516 by the local governor, Andrea Vendramin, who originally named it "Porta Vendramina" after himself, even placing a commemorative plaque by the right-hand pedestrian entrance. The Council of Ten in Venice did not take this well—any form of self-glorification was strictly forbidden in the Republic. They renamed the gate after the forty martyrs of Sebaste and ordered the plaque to be chiseled away. You can still see the marks from the chiseling today, right next to the pedestrian entrance on the outer side of the city.

Play Park

Porta Santi Quaranta

Our wandering in search of the traces of the friars in Treviso has come to an end. We pass through this gateway, cross the road, and find ourselves on Viale Montegrappa, then Via Monterumici, and from there, back to the car.

Photos

Chiesa Carmelitani scalzi interno

Interno Chiesa dei Carmelitani

Tempio San Nicolò

Il maestoso interno di San Nicolò

Rosone della Chiesa di San Nicolò

Organo chiesa San Nicolò

Bandiera città di Treviso

Scene cavalleresche Loggia dei Cavalieri

Piazza San Leonardo

Ponte San Francesco

Chiesa San Francesco

Tomba Pietro Alighieri

Ponte Fra Giocondo

Giardini Padre Marco d'Aviano

Track Gps

Traditional Taste in Treviso

Vecia Hostaria dai Naneti

Cold cuts, cheese and typical venetian cicchetti

near Piazza dei Signori (at the right side of Benetton Store

Tel. 340 378 3158

Let me here

What to see

Church of San Giovanni della Croce: in the apse, the Florentine painter Umberto Bargellini frescoed the Virgin of Carmel surrounded by Carmelite Saints.

San Nicolò Temple this is the largest church in the city, measuring 90 meters in length and 34 meters in height. Inside, you can admire frescoes by Tommaso da Modena and other artists from his school.

Loggia dei Cavalieri: a symbol of the city's power during the era of the free commune (the Middle Ages), this elegant covered structure was once the meeting place for Treviso's nobility.

Church of San Francesco: the architecture marks the transition from Romanesque to early Gothic. The interior features a single nave and five side chapels. Inside, you can find the tombs of Pietro Alighieri (the son of Dante Alighieri) and the daughter of Francesco Petrarch.

Traditional Taste in Treviso

Vecia Hostaria dai Naneti

Cold cuts, cheese and typical venetian cicchetti

near Piazza dei Signori (at the right side of Benetton Store

Tel. 340 378 3158

Let me here

Refreshment Points

Fountains along the walk

Vecia Hostaria dai Naneti in Vicolo Broli 2 a Treviso - Tel. 340 378 3158

Curiosities

On the day of the winter solstice (December 21st), something "magical" happens inside the Temple of San Nicolò. At noon, the sun's rays pierce through the upper skylights and, hitting the many glass lenses of the windows, light up the six saints positioned above the arches of the northern nave.